rough waters
the surfing yesterday was no good, except for the workout. the wind was thoroughly blowing in a northeastern direction towards the shore, the undertow was pulling southeast and even though the waves were only two feet tall they were breaking within 6 feet of each other. the result being it was formidable to get sufficiently out to even catch a wave. paddling and duckdiving were out of the question since the combined force of the wind and undertow would take you 50 feet down the beach for every 10 feet of progress. the best method i found was to put the board above my head and run ass-forward as fast as i could between waves, and it still took me 10 minutes to get out far enough to catch a wave. catching a wave was pretty easy given the conditions but standing up on the board was as hard as it has ever been. mostly I just ate it, hard. and then repeated the whole ungraceful exercise.
della faired better than i but we both went home bruised. hopefully the ocean is calmer today.
posted by tyson on
Wednesday, September 06, 2006
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